Troubleshooting a Faulty Submersible Bilge Pump

Time back, we wrote about how to install a submersible bilge pump, the gear meant to prevent water from collecting in the bilge. This pump is essential since it can save you some time when and prevent your boat from flooding. Unfortunately, bilge pumps are susceptible to failing as a result of the smelly, slimy and dirty conditions including the deplorable condition in bilges. It is wise to know what steps to make before throwing away your pump and installing a new one since there are various components in your submersible pump. The following are necessary steps to follow especially if your pump is not that bad. Pump Functions but Doesn't Pump First, inspect for clogs or failure. If your pump runs without discharging water then; carefully unmount it from its base and look for debris in the intake and bottom section. Similarly, check for debris inside the pump's impeller which are easy to see. Proceed to remove any visible dirt and see if the problem is fixed. Also, remember to inspect the impeller to ensure that it has not shattered or loosened from its axle. In the absence of visible clogs in the intake and base of your bilge pump, disconnect the discharge hose, clean and blow it to ensure it has no obstructions. Alternatively, you can run pressurized water from a garden hose through the pump's discharge to clear debris. If water comes through the discharge hose, then there are no blockages, you can try to reassemble your pump. Else, if your bilge pump does not discharge water, check along its outlet hose to ensure there are not failures and the clamp connections are in order. If there is a vented loop in the discharge hose, remove the vent cap on top of the loop such that the duckbill valve is free. Also, inspect if inline valves are blocked or have failed. In case you do not see positive results consider replacing your bilge pump. Pump Does Not Operate Completely A common problem with bilge pumps is failing to run which requires diagnosing the entire electrical lines. However, do not fear as troubleshooting is a simple exercise that even newbies can manage comfortably. First, ensure that the control switch is toggled to the on position. Then make sure that the batteries are charged using a voltmeter. Next, if your switch is integrated with a fuse, check to see that the fuse is in order. If it not blown, replace it to see whether the bilge pump will run. The control switch and circuit breaker may also be faulty, inspect to ensure that the wire terminations are proper. Second, when you find that your pump battery, circuit protection, and connected devices are in order, then you will be left without an option but to inspect the electrical connections for your bilge pump. Once there, test the electrical splices and connections to your pump and determine that they are secure. If visual inspection confirms everything is okay, use a multimeter to measure the flow of electric current through the electrical connections. Third, switch off the electrical power then cut a bit of the insulation around the positive and negative wires. Then, turn on the power and connect the probes of the multimeter to the appropriate electrical cables. A reading of between 12.4 up to 14 volts on the multimeter shows that the electrical connections are okay. On the other hand, if you do not get a reading after performing a thorough inspection, then there is a component that should be replaced. If you find you have power at the bilge pump lead wire, then it is apparent that you have a failure of the float switch. With that in mind, you ought to know that bilge pumps have their way of thinking and the internal float switch signals the pump to turn off and on If you your pump operates using this mechanism and still fails to run when the power supply is directly connected; then there are chances that the motor, internal brain, and float may be faulty. In this condition, the option you have is buying a new pump. Bilge pumps are mostly fitted with external float switches. These switches are usually installed next to the submersible pump and are secured with white plastic blocks to a hinge. The working of a float switch is such that it floats on water. As the water level increases to a given height, an electrical connection is made, and the bilge pump is turned on When the water level drops, the electrical circuit is broken, and the pump is switched off. The design of float switches is that they are mounted inline with the battery positive terminal which leads down to the bilge pump. However, there are pumps designed with automatic switches that are also installed inline. When you want to check whether your float switch is in order, you have to cut the wire leading to the pump. In doing so, you will have to strip a bit of the wire insulation so that you can expose the strands. With that, it can be easy to see faults that are causing the float switch from working. After that, take the negative terminal leading to the switch and then cut some bit of insulation to expose its inside strands. Then, connect the multimeter probes to the exposed terminals of the float switch. Once the connection is made, check the multimeter to see if you can get a reading of 12.3 and above. If that is the case, then your float switch is in working condition. Then the problem could lie in the pump. On the other hand, if you do not obtain a reading, then your float switch is faulty, and the option you have is replacing it From the look of things, the troubleshooting process looks like it could take up the whole of your weekend. However, it will only consume one to two hours of your time before getting your pump to run. And before you realize, you will hear the sound of your bilge pump as its discharge pour water overboard.